You’d be hard-pressed to identify film costumes as widely recognizable as the ones introduced to us in The Wizard of Oz (1939): Take Dorothy’s ruby red slippers that are on display at the Smithsonian as an obvious example. This means when Wicked costume designer Paul Tazewell was brought onto the project by director Jon M. Chu, he was essentially tasked with reintroducing audiences to pieces they’ve been long familiar with in a distinct and new light.

“There’s an emotional arc that’s created by the choices ’m making [with these] clothes,” Paul told Cosmopolitan. “They’re different reflections of who these women are and what their style is—and as we move through their year, they’re also emotionally changing.”

portrait of a man in a dark suit seated against a muted background
Sophy Holland for Universal Pictures
Paul Tazewell
an illustration of a woman in a pink dress with puffed sleeves
Courtesy of Paul Tazewell

During Cosmo’s chat with Paul, he gave insight into how he was able to pull off this tall order for the record-breaking box office hit. He’s been working in this space since he was 16 years old, and given his first-ever job was creating looks for a stage production of The Wiz as a teenager, this job marked a full-circle moment for the Tony Award–winning and Oscar-nominated designer.

“I’m working with the same story and characters—a different interpretation, but 33 years later, here I am,” he said.

figure in black attire with green skin standing on a decorative railing
Giles Keyte/Universal Pictures
a character dressed as a witch alongside another character in a pink outfit
Giles Keyte/Universal Pictures
a princess figure in a pink gown with a tiara and wand standing on a decorative balcony
Giles Keyte/Universal Pictures

In our full sit-down interview above, watch Paul detail his creative approach, react to fan recreations of his Wicked costumes, and explain why it took 225 hours (that’s over 9 days straight for those doing the math at home) to create Galinda’s bubble dress.